It is easily thought that kebab-store grilled meat suffers from limiting gradations of quality – all well below good. I, however, had the fortune to wander into this place – Kebabish, subittled ‘we thrill to grill’ – just up from the Bakerloo line stop of Edgeware Road tube – where they, you guessed it, grill excellent meat to put into freshly baked bread. It’s a good pitstop: I had there what is perhaps the most accurately and delightfully named ‘kebab roll’ in the Universe. £2 well spent.

It’s fantastic. Kebabalicious, one might even say, should one be inclined.