All posts by Armand

Christmas season cooking

Updated: Select photos available here.

Inspired by too much Saturday Kitchen reading too many food blogs, a desire to reciprocate my mother-in-law’s amazing culinary generousity, and a bit more time than I should have, I collaborated with my brother-in-law James to create a three course meal for Amanda and Ulla between Christmas and New Year. After 6 hours of shopping and cooking, the courses were:

Roast butternut squash soup

Roast loin of pork with crunch crackling with a port gravy, served with
Roast potatoes
Stewed red cabbage with apple and red wine
Shredded and whole stir-fried brussel sprout leaves in a Vichy-style sauce
Golden-syrup glazed roast chanterey carrots

Stewed apples and blackberries with chewy meringues and vanilla ice-cream

It was a fairly spectacular meal and James and I had huge fun creating it – from traipsing up and down Portobello road sourcing all the ingredients (highlight; my not realising a butcher was halal and asking if he had a loin of pork… to be served with the friendly rejoinder “quick, shoot him!”), to managing multiple ovens in the house to get everything cooked on time, to James’ handy timing schedule.

Of course, given my affection for soup I thought I’d give you the low-down on Mr Worral Thompson’s soup recipe from the BBC’s food archives (btw, Pob (my friend who works on the BBC food site!) , if you’re reading this, your search still doesn’t work! I had to dig it up via Google!) — it is awesome. Whilst I’m not sure it was necessary to roast he butternut squash in multiple segments (halves would have worked and reduced cooking time) the final result of the soup was rich, sweet and savoury in one, perfect consistency and really, really moreish. Next time we make it, I might try adding some curry flavouring to add an exotic hint to a very British winter soup. Served with a “cheffy drizzle” of olive oil, this was a perfect winter warmer.

If you’re curious about the rest of the menu, let me know and I’ll write more!

Marco Pierre White – soup non-reviews

I’ve eaten a couple of Marco Pierre White’s ‘Glorious’ luxury supermarket soup range lately and wanted to write reviews but there’s no web presence for them at all, no nutritional information I can find, nor a reminder of the soup names and descriptions on the web, which rather scuppers my ability to write proper reviews now that I’ve discarded the pots they came in. However, the £2.49 soups from Sainsbury’s were pretty tasty on the whole. Here’s what I remember of them:

Chicken curry soup: tasting faintly of the mild-curry Batchelor’s super noodle this is moreish and tasty, mildly spiced in a British-curry-might-have-fruit-in-it kind of way, a good consistency and with a sensible amount of meat and veg for a potted store soup. IIRC, the calorie count was around the 400 mark which is absolutely fine for a large pot of soup from a supermarket. 4/5.

Sausage hot pot: Tomato was the overwhelming flavour here, with sausages and beans suspended in a rich, chunky soup. It was pretty tasty and hit the spot; however I’ve never really rated tomato soup as a great option so doesn’t fly too highly on my taste bud rankings. Again, lowish on the calls and probably recommended for anyone that likes tomato more than me. 3.5/5 for this one.

Any corrections on soup names, caloric information, pointers to web presences etc., appreciated!

Sainsbury’s Spiced Chicken and Chickpea Soup review

Description: Rich spiced chickpeas, chicken, veg in a mildly spiced, Moroccan style soup.

Health: Pretty good – 382 calories in a 600g pot. Low on fat, sat fat etc.

Taste: Not bad at all. Good levels of spice, filling, a LOT of chickpea and a good amount of chicken for a store-branded pot of soup. As ever, the soup was slightly thin and the ingredients float slightly in it, but have had it twice and its my preferred soup from your average small Sainbo’s now.

Full-o-meter: Excellent. Very high fibre keeps you full for a while.

Verdict: 3.5/5. Almost a 4 but for the consistency. Recommended nonetheless!

Planet Organic lentil & spinach soup review

Dropped into the Planet Organic grocery story the other day and had lunch with Amanda. Impressed by the fresh soup…

Description: Chunky, dal-like lentil base with loads of rich, fresh (presumably organic) spinach for a lightly spiced mild-curry of a soup. Served in a 14oz cup with a seeded multigrain wholemeal roll. Great value at £2.49 (vs. £3.49 for a typical Pret Soup with roll, or about £3.60 for Eat).

Health: Not sure. No nutritional information available online. Probably pretty good on all counts though.

Taste: YUM. The mild curry brought back the taste of home (Malaysia), the spinach was rich, tasty cooked perfectly (not mush!), great textures, consistency and taste.

Full-o-meter: Pretty good. Hard to tell as have been out of diet mode over Christmas but definitely kept me going!

Verdict: 4/5. Definitely keen to pop into Planet Organic for another soup sometime soon.

Cop15’s got talent – New Urusen tracks and Damo in DK

Longtime followers will know I’m a big fan of my friend Ben’s band, Urusen, who have a bunch of new tracks up on their Myspace page today, including a COP 15 special (“Wish it was”) – all brilliant, as ever with them. Check them out.

If you’re more into the environmental side of things, my friend Damian is reporting from the conference for Prospect (and has been writing for the BBC in the run-up to it). All worth checking out, and a great overview of some of the issues under discussion and (on Prospect) a feel for the show.

Sorry for lack of posts of late. There’s been no new soup, work’s been manic, as has the Christmas routine which has seen us away most weekends. Expect blogging between Christmas and New Year, as I attempt DIY and to resume my fitness regimen.

Multiplatform life

In a break from the monotony of soup reviews, I bring you a take on technology.

Conversations with some friends lately about new mobile phones inevitably led in one direction – “I don’t like Apple, I don’t want to buy an iPhone.” It’s a semi-rational objection, merging a dislike of Apple’s corporate practices and the known limitations of the iPhone – lack of replaceable battery, no multitasking, no native Gmail app etc.

The implication of the non-technological objection seems to be that if they start on this slippery slope, they are endorsing all the ‘closed’ business practice that Apple espouses — from App approval in the AppStore, to a relatively constrained development platform, to their close-lipped strategy around announcing new technology.

My view? Nonsense. Buying an iPhone doesn’t convert you to the Cult of Jobs and owning a Windows PC doesn’t make you inherently unfun or David Mitchell-esque. Of course, if Apple’s business practices extended into human rights violations then I think the argument might extend, but to the best of my knowledge this isn’t the case… you’re just making a decision about the technology you use, not advocating any greater moral principles. The iPhone, I admit, should come with a health warning – “this phone may make you whitter on tediously about its greatness.” And I do think it is great, but I nonetheless manage to maintain my broader dislike of Apple’s corporattitude.

I live a multiplatform life; I use Windows 7 PCs at home and at work, a Windows XP netbook, most of my ‘applications’ live in the cloud (we planned our wedding in Google Docs), but use Microsoft Office applicatons for much client work, I use Google Talk, Windows Live Messenger and Cisco Webex Connect and I own an iPhone – previously I’d used Windows Mobile handsets – since 2001!

I have nothing against Linux but I have no use for it, and I prefer Windows 7 to OSX. I may well try Android when it comes round to 3.0 and I’m next due an upgrade. I have an Xbox 360, a Wii and a PS3. I use a Sony e-Reader. I have a Nikon DSLR and a Canon compact digital. I use Twitter and Facebook for my status updates and social network interaction.

My digital life is complex… I won’t be pigeonholed by my choice of phone. Will you?

Eat Mexican bean soup review – Very Big Bold @eat_news

Description: From Eat: “Robust and packed full of flavour, chickpeas, butterbeans, red kidney beans, tomatoes and smoked paprika makes this soup a Mexican classic. Garnished with crème fraiche and Cheddar cheese.” From me: A heckuva lot of dem beans in a spicy tomato based soup, garnished with an insultingly small amount of cheddar cheese and a dollop of craime fresh.

Health: Pretty good – only 380 calories for a ‘very big’ bold. Good amount of fibre, as you’d expect with all those beans, but not huge on the protein front.

Taste: Pretty well spiced, the tomato soup base kicks a tasty punch. Not oversalted in the way some Eat soups are, it still manages to be reassuringly tasty. However… beans are beans, and 200g of chickpeas, kidney beans and butterbeans gets a bit monotnous. More cheddar might have helped thicken the (slightly watery) tomato soup base and add a bit more moreishness to the vat.

Full-o-meter: Pretty good. This is a BIG pot of soup and high in fibre.

Verdict: 3/5. It’s substantial, healthy, kind of tasty… but not quite rich or tasty enough to win a higher score. Meat definitely needed.

Eat chicken, leek & bacon risotto soup review – Big Bold @eat_news

Description: From Eat: “Our version of an Italian classic – rich and creamy, with chicken, smoked bacon and a splash of white wine. Garnished with rice.” About right, although I’d question ‘rich’.

Health: Not great. 425 calories for 16oz, high on saturated fats and salt, low on fibre and protein.

Taste: Not that impressed. Given the nutritional content and description you’d expect something luxuriant and rich – but the thin soup with stingy bits of chicken and fatty pancetta don’t quite live up to the hype. Salty moreishness makes it more than edible, but the substance – isn’t really there.

Full-o-meter: Not great, as you’d imagine, given the description. Wonder if some grated cheddar or parmesan would have been a more sensible topping, and if they’d gone less heavy on water, milk and stock and more generously with meat and veg…

Verdict: 3/5. Tasty-ish, but not that substantial and really not that special by the standards I’ve become accustomed to. Not actively bad, though.

Pret Malaysian chicken soup review

This one’s a couple of day’s late – sorry – been a bit manic.

Worth flagging that I had this at least in part to contrast with Eat’s chicken laksa soup – a very, very tasty Eat option which only scored low for me beccause it scores so high on the saturated fat front…

Description: A coconut based Malay-style curry of a soup thick with rice. Pret lists ingredients: chicken, rice, coconut milk, onion, garlic, fish sauce, lime juice, lemon grass, red chilli and galangal.

Health: Not bad at around 243 calories. Pret’s soups and portions seem to be better suited to healthy eating than Eat’s.

Taste: It tasted of disappointment. Thick with rice, thin on chicken and flavouring, this slurry was as far removed from Malaysia as I am (I’m Malaysian, but live in London). Boo. What a let down.

Full-o-meter: With roll, it was fine. Not great; the absence of fibrous vegetables and even enough chicken results in this not feeling like the most wholesome of soups.

Verdict: 2/5. Shame on you, Pret. You can (and usually do) do better.

Eat chorizo and chickpea soup review – Big Bold @eat_news

Hmm, new soup day! Excitement!

Description: From Eat: “A hearty and warming soup packed with chorizo, chickpeas and tomatoes with a hint of smoked paprika and red chilli. Garnished with flat leaf parsley.” Yep, about right!

Health: Big on most nutritional fronts – Big Bold was the biggest I allowed myself at 374 cals for the 16 oz portion. Salt also slightly off the charts but not too bad on other fronts.

Taste: It feels a bit unfair to score this against Pret when Eat has been a little cheap in winning the taste war by adding loads of salt. That said, it’s also much fuller of chorizo and chickpea than the Pret alternative (ok, so that had – a few – butterbeans instead of chickpeas) – but probably does win out on salty, spicy, tomato & sausagey goodness.

Full-o-meter: Good – I think. I’ve been a bit rubbish on the diet lately and got it with some rye bread. But the chickpea/fibre in it will make it work.

Verdict: 4.5/5. Definitely has an edge over the Pret alternative and definitely worth having again.